Destination Santiago Peregrino 60

 Camino del Sureste Well a lot has happened since the last Camino four years ago. I have retired, run a few half marathons, moved to the countryside in the province of Alicante, Spain, learned how to cultivate our olive trees, make olive oil from our own olives and begun to learn a little Spanish. Having seen a number of Camino signs locally in Aspe, and visited Pilar de la Horadada which is the starting point of the Rana del Sureste and looked at the map of Camino routes across Spain which sits on the wall above my desk... ...and knowing Sam - a friend on mine-  who has also walked a Camino (Ourense to Santiago), was coming to visit... you can probably work out what's coming next... ...as you will know if you have made a Camino to Santiago it reels you back in to come once more, to learn a little more, to see rather than to glimpse, to appreciate rather than take for granted, to be a little closer to God And so it was that on Thursday 18th June we began outside the Basilica d...

Those of you who have followed this blog for a while (since 2018) may recall that I missed out the Burgos to Leon section because of blisters. So feeling blessed now it is completed. We had a great time walking and saw lots of new sights. There were some personal bests and achievements too. If you include the sightseeing it's at least 225 km maybe a little more. Glad to report that the cafe Albany opposite the Cathedral is still open and serving good coffee and giant Pan de Chocolat. The view is arguably the best for an urban coffee shop. Don't forget to celebrate your achievements with someone, however big or small they may be. They are your blessings. Your moments. Ultrea! 

This picture needs few words. We are walking through La Meseta, a vast grain growing area of Spain. There are wheat fields and poppies in abundance. In another part of Europe there are even vaster wheat fields, and sadly, bloodshed the same colour as the poppies. Small wonder perhaps how this direction sign has been renewed. Check out the colours, the statement and if you are the praying kind, offer yours for the peace that is so badly needed. For those whose lives are blighted beyond all normality. 

Today we arrived at Calzadilla de Los Hermanillos, approximately 150 km into our journey from Burgos to Leon on the Camino Frances. Today we had chosen to start a walk along the longest remaining Roman Road in Spain still used. It is mainly a pebbled, dirt track. We shall follow that to Mansilla de las Mulas. We have stayed in a variety of Albergues along the way, but none in such a state of renewal as this one. Indeed, when we arrived we thought it was "cerrado" - closed. Fortunately there were 6 beds only and we were able to have the use of two. It was basic with a loo, a shower and few power sockets. The Spanish Hospitalero - host - was able to find me an extension lead to enable me to use my CPAP machine. We can see that the improvement works will result in a first class Albergue, renewed, extended, facilities all much better than they were. It is a converted school building. I guess our lives sometimes need that kind of treatment too, helping to make us more able, more l...

Spain is well known for its festivals and processions. Back in 2018 I was able to watch several during Semena Santa - Holy Week - in Santiago de Compestella. I still follow Cofradia de la Esperanza - Confraternity of Hope - on Facebook. A key part of the Cofradia's role is the sharing of Christian hope through the retelling of elements of the Passion through the carrying of scenes from it around the streets. The key members are often processing with their faces covered for anonymity, the message being more important than the bearer. Outside San Lorenzo's church in Sahagun two members of the Cofradia de Jesus de Nazareth are immortalised in bronze. One a drummer the other with a horn. Priests often wear black for the same reason, it's dressing down to be unimportant rather than as is often perceived, the opposite. The message of Christian hope is timeless, it doesn't belong to a particular generation or class of person. Humility is the key. The Royal British Legion puts ...

The Albergue we stayed at was serviced by nuns attached to the parish church. In the early evening they invited any pilgrims who wished to join them for an hour in the garden. We were asked to introduce ourselves briefly, name, where we were from and what expectation we had or reason we had for walking the Camino. As you may expect these varied a lot. There were many nationalities represented. This experience turned out to be a whole lot more moving than I guess had been expected. When the lady next to me spoke giving her name and Ukraine as her country of origin there was a slight pause and then spontaneous applause. I wonder what that sign of solidarity meant to her? A few minutes later the nuns asked if anyone had a song to offer. A guy from Texas offered and took a guitar from one of the nuns and began to play " By the rivers of Babylon" in a blues style. He taught us the tune and we sang it several times. He had no idea what the origins of the song was. One of the nuns e...