Destination Santiago Peregrino 60

the beautiful front of the Arch of Our Lady and the shop window displays showing how to sell spectacles to model railway enthusiasts mask a very painful moment, both physically and emotionally for me. When I took my socks off at the Albegue it became clear quickly,and consulting other pilgrims that a trip to Centre Salud was again needed. I haven't put the foot photo online deliberately so as not to cause upset. Around a third of my left foot including blisters was very damaged.  There were tears as the nurses cleaned it, trimmed it and ordered me not to walk for at least 5 days, probably longer. My first follow up appointment is in two days time. I have to rest as much as possible. I can leave my rucksack in the Albergue, but I still have to be out from 8 am till 2 pm. On the plus side I should be able to catch a morning mass and look around the Cathedral. The Irish bar where I am writing this blog has WiFi, but the Albergue does not.  I still can't quite believe I ...

Today the starting temperature was -7 degrees... The first few km took the Camino through Atapeurca, an important archaeological area. (Google it) .with a rocky climb up to the Cruz de Matagrande, pictured. The Way was stony and through beautiful olive groves, a sort of biblical prelude to the cross that followed. Cue verse of the "The old rugged cross". A much needed cafe con leche stop at a small cafe in Cardenuela Riopico. The temperature had risen a bit, but it still took my fingers 15 minutes to thaw out. Best have another coffee then. So now I am wearing socks on my hands too! Camino led gently downhill via the edge of the Burgos Aeropuerto to Castanares. Thence via another amazing "Parque Fluvial". The cold winter air, frost that had frozen parts of small waterfalls and 6.5 km of lovely walking by myself. Aching feet meant I was glad to find the Albergue Municipal next to the Cathedral. 

Today saw more sunshine, but a freezing start to the day, around -2 degrees. More lovely undulating Spanish countryside, a fabulous hot chocolate stop at a tiny cafe in the middle of nowhere, oases can be found, "Seek and he shall find..." The later steep climb out of Villafranca Montes de Oca was slightly unexpected as it was steep. Around 150 m in around half a mile, I can see the look in my lovely wife's face at the thought. The next 9.5 km were at around 1000m through the pine woods , these smelt beautiful. Around halfway through this a small "Oasis del Camino" seemed a great place to stop for cereal bar and water. My feet were aching a fair bit so it was not too long or I would have found it hard to continue. The sculpture in the picture was at the entrance to St Juan de Ortega. A further 3.6 km and the Albergue Taberna Ages at Ages. Good beer and fabulous food. Laus Deo.

This was a beautiful afternoon. A pair of birds nesting on the church roof, sunshine in the square, a cold beer (0.0% for me because of medicine) There was a bandstand hidden in the trees. The trees look for all the world like Whomping Willows" from Harry Potter films. The church dedicated to St Peter. Such moments as these help us on our way. Little was I to realise quite how important that might soon become...

This was a positive day, walking carefully, having rested at Santo Domingo. Undulating landscape broadly parallel to the Nacionale Route 120 pausing here and there for water. I could imagine the children of Israel looking at this as a the entry to the Promised Land, not quite there but looking good! It was therefore a joy to arrive at Belorado. The Hospitalero could see those of us who arrived before they were quite ready for us, so we were allowed to skip on our beds for an hour before coming back to sign in. What super hospitality, cannot imagine certain chain hotels in the UK doing this.... "Blessed be the Hospitalero's for they shall find the mercy they give...I pray"

After this evening's said Mass in the Cathedral I was able to take a few photographs. This is a beautiful place hallowed by the prayers of the faithful. What craftsmanship in these images, this beauty. The reliquaries don't show up too well but are absolutely magnificent. All in one way or another pointing to the creativity, wonder and glory of God. Laus Deo.

Today was "Frio" very "Frio", there was frost on the ground, a cold wind and the blessing of around 14 km of walking in open country. No photographs as I didn't either hang around or want to freeze while taking them!  The good part about today was being made welcome in the Rioja Alto Golf Club. Peregrinos were welcomed. I wonder how many golf clubs in the UK would welcome hikers or ramblers? Coffee was good and the Orange juice freshly squeezed. The kind of signs that warm the heart as day ends are these... Albergue especially with the word Abierto added!! So this is where I am at present. A very nice meal at the cafe next door. A good night's sleep too. But it is a rest day. I need to rest, also to have blisters checked by the centre salud, one at least is infected. (Today is Saturday) . More soon....

I cannot believe that I did not take many photographs today. The journey began with several, maybe four kilometres of walking through a public park. The highlight of which was a real red squirrel. The gardens were well kept, children's play areas, picnic areas, bbq areas, cycle tracks, water fountains (fuente with fresh drinking water) . This gave way to walking next to the motorway that runs from Legrono onwards towards Burgos.  This was a good day early on. Navarrette was passed in good time, then looking for water in Ventosa was interesting. Everything was closed, even the houses. It was a ghost town. The medical centre door was open, no one there! There was no running water in the hand basin. A white van - it had to be- drew up and the man starts advertising his vegetables by loudspeaker. No one comes. I walk over and ask him "aqua" "agua". He shakes his head, I show him empty bottle. He fills it from his personal supply, sees I am thirsty, encourages m...

This was the day I reduced my pack weight by posting various items back "home". Many Euro lighter too I then wend my way onwards. Would the post office in Oldbury have a selection of boxes, tape and stuff ready for anyone to make a parcel, as this Correos did? I also reflected that the world has changed a bit since my youth. The only two pilgrim's in the municipal at Viana last night were myself and young man, maybe 22/23 Juan Pablo...from Argentina. Legrono was a beautiful place and I found on the recommendation of other pilgrims, the Parroquial Albergue. It was attached to the Parish Church. I was able to recharge my spiritual batteries by attending mass at noon. Then a search for food found a nice bar near the cathedral. Menu del dia provided a curious selection of items. I had the pasta Bolognese followed by Pollo Nuggets and Patatas, washed down with Helado and plenty of included vinho tinto. Back to the Albergue for a warm "welcome, come in, it is free, bu...

Next time you are strolling along the Ridgeway, or down the cut, I doubt you will encounter one of these... yes it really is a wine fountain. Yes it really is free, and yes I tested it and can confirm it was lovely and fruity. The vineyard allow 100 litres a day for the sustenance of pilgrims, they also supply water used to make their wine if you prefer... where was this? You can Google the winery, but it was coming out of Estella towards Irache Ennis route to Los Arcos. Just imagine a cider fountain in Cornwall.....

There were some beautiful views along the way today. The Way went uphill and down dale, often exposed with the wind blowing across my path. Frio, as the guys in a very small tienda (shop, this one no bigger than our lounge at home) into this Tienda was stuffed all kinds of goods, a counter, a bar table three chairs and a loo. The proprietor was also offering hot drinks at 75 cents, so hot chocolate made with real milk was well received by me. There were two guys from the farm next door having coffee before taking a large truck somewhere. They were dressed in bright fatigues and one had a bright sense of humour. He reminded me of one of my churchwardens... anyhow, I had a lovely warm Buen Camino handshake that was well meant. It was an honour to sit in what was, judging by the locals passing through, the village news exchange and front room. It turned out to be the only shop open along the way today - glad I stopped. I stopped too at a lovely outdoor altar, and sat in the p...

Today was a day travelling alone from Estella to Los Arcos. It was one of those " tougher days" . Much of the way was in eyesight of the A12 Autovia where progress was incredibly quick. However there was at one point a delightful Camino Service Area, complete with a library, yes look closely, there was even an honesty box water and juice stall, yes unattended and all in date, and to remind us of the one in whose name many walk the Camino a small crib set into the dry stone wall. The motorway doesn't stop here, but I can imagine on a warms summers night pilgrims sleeping under the stars in the beautiful olive grove. Motorways are always busy, I wonder how busy the original Roman one was, for here it is in the next photograph. Painful for this modern day pilgrim to walk on, but a whole lot less painful than Jesus walk along the via Dolorosa. That thought and offering him my painful feet in this section helped a lot. Jesus, Saviour, who suffered on the cross for...

I paused to wonder how many pilgrims had crossed this beautiful medieval bridge coming out of Puente, it is the one that gives the town it's name. Why were they doing it? Were they like me at the moment travelling alone? Whilst we can all members of the body of Christ, there some things we always do alone, so may be that's good practice for the journey we make when we are called "home". Perhaps it will help us, help me, to do that if I remember the saints great and small who have already done this.  This was definitely the day of bridges. Plenty of them, and mountain scenery too. I remember bursting into "How lovely on the mountains are feet of him, who brings Good News..." Then I am thinking, those mountains were put there one way or another by God, and here am I, called to bring "Good News" to his people. Well I have tried, but as the old testament prophets make clear, it is not ( despite what church authorities will have you believe) a re...

I think the ether lost my text for this posting, so I write once more. It was a short walk from Eturga to Puente so I arrived very early. Stopping outside the Albergue I was wondering what to do, as I did so, a lovely smiling face greeted me, it was a Congolese Ordinand. You stay tonight, he said, yes please, I replied. Come drop your stuff, go eat and return to sleep, I am here all day. So that is what I did, pausing for a prayer in the church pictured here. Church of St James, Puente de la Reine. I returned to the Albergue with supplies, remembering that the next day was Domingo, so all would be Cerrado, it was! Sleep was lovely, from about 2 pm to 8 am stopping for fluid intake from Apple juice and water. Please pray for the ordinands training here, Padres Repadores. Priests of the Sacred Heart of Jesus.

Having left Jesus and Maria the hostel in a converted church it was a slow slog through the city, past the amazing Town Hall picture in this post. Then on through - a word which inevitably means a hill is involved - Cizar Menor, pause to buy aqua, then up the long steep hills to the hill of forgiveness, judging by the climb, I had plenty to seek forgiveness for... by this time I had been caught and encouraged by two previous walking companions. Bless them, they knew I was struggling and so rang ahead and booked me into an Albergue in Eturga. They knew what I didn't, that the climb down was very horrible. It was all boulders for about 1.5 km. Not scree, not gravel, but big boulder type rocks. By the time I got to Eturga I had had enough. I was however able to pause at this lovely Marian Shrine  to pray as I entered Eturga. Juan, the Hospitalero at the Albergue took one look at me, ordered me to sit down, and he returned with a small bowl of onion and beetroot salad and a huge glass...

Today was a solo walk on account of I overslept, oops. Still undaunted on went the boots, although I was a little concerned about a couple of blisters. This was a prayer walk morning, giving thanks for the magnesium plant bringing work to the town and minerals for medicine. It wasn't long until the bridge was passed. Then I began to sing "Katika safari, yah kwenda, bin guni, tembea nae bwana Jesu.." "On the journey to heaven we will walk,with the Lord, he will walk with us on our way..." It seemed most appropriate as I was journeying seemingly alone. Indeed it was reprised several times that day. The last 10k was hard work walking along a seemingly endless "Parque Fluvial". I could have stopped at Arre, but a handy Carrefour Express selling water and chocolate boosted my enthusiasm. A little later I met a man a little older than myself on his way to his allotment. He stopped to be an enthusiastic encouragement. Where had I come from, where was ...